When you buy a lower spec Fiesta you may notice that there is no electric mod cons fitted.
In this guide we show you how to install the remote boot release using genuine ford parts.
Tools Needed:
Socket Set
Screw Drivers
Knife
Wire cutters/strippers
Soldering Equipment
Insulation Tape
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Boot Release
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Boot Pop
Ejecter seat anyone?
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Lets start with what you need from a scrap yard.
+ The Motor with plugs and wire(earth screw not shown)
+ Push button switch with a length of wire
+ Ignition Relay and socket with a length of wire
+ Fuse Holder from fuse box
+ Contact Pins and Plates
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Next a closer look at the relay.
This needs to be removed from the donor car in tact. depress the
tabs next to the socket in the fuse box and pull upwards.
its the green one you want, you can cut all the wires off short
apart from the red and white.
You need as much of this as you can.
Remove the relay from the socket and release the tabs
holing the metal prongs in then Poke it out using a small screwdriver.
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The Fuse holder is located on the side of the fusebox,
it can be either white or black, the proper boot release one is white.
as no other electrick pack is being installed then any fuse holder can be used.
Cut it from the other cables and depress the tab and slide the unit off the fuse box.
Next is using a small screwdriver as mentioned above, poke out the contact pins,
this makes soldering less difficuilt.
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Unclip the boot release switch from the center consol by either getting
your finger nails or 2 screwdrivers under the edge and gently lifting.
unclip the multiplug and pull the wires out the back of the consol.
more than likley the radio will be missing on the donor car,
so just reach in the hole and snip the cables off.
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Remove the contact plates and pins from the boot and body.
You will need these as lower spec ones had pins missing.
unclip the cables from both sections.
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Now the motor.
it looks like a central locking solinoid but is mounted on a metal bracket
remove the trim and release the rods from the motor by wisting the green plastic clip
unscrew the motor and unclip the wires and completly remover from the boot.
ensure the wires are all there.
on the end of the connecting rod there is a small white plastic clip
do not loose or break it otherwise the rod will not fit the latch.
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Now the soldering!!
solder the wire from the center pin of the relay that you removed to one of
the wires connecting to the fuse holder, again removed.
insulate the join with either insulation tape or heat shrink.
Next connect the other fuse holder wire to one of the wires coming from the switch,
at this point you may need to add a litle wire into the loom, i had to add about 45cm worh
it all depends on where you cut the loom.
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Full Length of car!
Now you need to get a length of wire the length of the car and a bit more
to run along the dash to behind the radio and to the middle of the boot.
Solder one end of this cable to the other wire from the switch, insulate it
now wrap both the wires together in insulation tape to avoid chaifage
on any plstic or metal surfaces.
when you get to the relay wire, just leave that un-insulated,
as it will blend into the other wires in the fuse box better.
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Boot loom
Simply a cable with a female connector on the end that connects to the pins
and on the other end a special ford plug that the motor connects to.
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Now into the car.
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Start at the fuse box, clip the fuse holder to the edge of the box and secure the wires.
At this point make sure the fuse is a blue 15amp one
A slight problem may arrise here is that the fuse holder might already be there
either with one or two fuses in, if it already has one fuse in,
simply push out the pins on the new holder and add to the existing holder.
If it has two fuses in: If you are lucky it should just clip onto the existing one.
If not, then you will just have to tiewrap the new holder to the old one,
Now Route the switch loom up under the dash tie-wrapping as you go, until you get to
behind the radio, which needs to be removed along with the heater surroundings,
this makes the next bit easier.
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Push the loom through the gap behind the radio so that it all drops in the footwell.
Carfully push the wire and multiplug through the hole in the top of the center consol
and remove all the coin trays to allow access to the wires.
thread the wire up and through the hole in the centre consol where the switch will go.
secure the wires behind the radio.
For older models you may need to cut a hole for the button,
this is a 5-minute job if you measure correctly and mark out, drill a number
of holes then use a knife to cut the plastic, its only soft so it will be easy.
Its up to you where you want it but the intended position works well next to the gear gaiter.
Here is the cutting template for the boot switch.
Boot_popper_switch_template.zip
Refit the radio and trim. connect the button to the loom(will only go one way)
push the switch home into the consol. refit the coin trays.
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WARNING I TAKE NO RESPONSABILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU MAY CAUSE,
MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.
Disconnect the battery please as you will be playing with the fuse box.
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Back to the fuse box.
pull out the ignition relay, usually yellow or green dependant on the model.
use the same method as described above to release the t shape black
block that the relay lives in.
you will notice that the middle pin space is empty
feed the red/white wire from your loom into the "spiders web" of cables.
Then push said wire up into the t shaped block ensuring it is the
correct way round until it clicks. once done, push the t sahped housing
back into the fuse box. install the new extra pinned relay into the box.
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Feed the long cable down the drivers side of the car.
Remove all the sill kick plates and trims all the way back to the boot.
secure the wire as you go in the OEM clips that are already there.
once in the boot, remove the trims and lay the cable all the way to the contact plates in the middle.
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Once in the boot the wire for the boot must be connected to the contact
plate, if yours has any plates missing you need to get a complete one from a scrappers.
When you get it make sure you get the part of the loom that is connected to the second
plate in from the right. This has a connector on that the boot release cable connects to.
Install the new plates and connect your loom back to it ensuring that the black wire
for the release is connected to it.
Looking from above left to right
1 wiper motor black
2 wiper motor black violet
3 boot release red and white
4 heated window, thick black and blue
Pin 4 is also the switch for the boot light, it has 2 wires brown and brown red
The above is for the plates on the body not the pins in the boot, but are the same
See picture below.
Also in the pic you may notice that the red white has another connector on it,
if thats the case just plug the boot wire into it, if not then you have to
take the plug apart and push the connector into it.
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Replace all trim panels making sure the loom is not being obstructed.
With the boot open remove all the trim from the actual hatch so that you have
access to the lock area.
You will notice 2 holes in the panel, this is where the boot pop motor secures,
screw it in making sure that the bracket is straight and the wires are at the
lower edge of the boot.
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Unclip the connecting rod from the boot lock then take a large torx bit and remove
the latch from the boot and it should have the connecting rod attached
to it from the lock.
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Attach the connecting rod from the boot pop into the other hole next to the existing rod,
replace the latch but do not tighten up fully, twist both rods into there
connectors in the lock and motor, tighten everything back up and that's it.
At this point you may want to de-lock your boot, if so, the hole will need
to be filled in either by welding or another method.
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From the motor there is one black wire that must be earthed in the boot,
connect to the earth for the wiper motor, if not installed just screw it to the metal.
The other wire has a plug on it, this connects to the pins in the boot,
remember second one in from the right. Now that's done. Secure the
cables and refit the trim
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That's it the entire loom laid down in the car.
Now its time to connect battery and test if it works.
Close the boot and go inside and push the button with the
ignition off, the boot should "POP" open. if it did well done,
if it did not, check the fuse and wiring and try again.
Now the test. start your car and try and press the button. if the boot
pops open then something went wrong with the installation. check and try again.
because the power is connected to the center pin of the ignition relay it will
not allow the boot to be opened while the car is running for saftey reasons.
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This guide is exactly the same for the old style release button in the middle
of the top coin tray as found in the XR2i model and others,
you just need the old plug, switch and housing.
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Hope this guide is of some help.
Guide Written and © On 04 May 2005 by Andrew Whiteman (AW3K)
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