In this guide we will show you how to install performance steel braided brake flexi lines.
The advantage of fitting these lines are that they reduce the amount of
flex that the standard pipes create, thus giving increased performance.
Tools Needed:
Braided brake hoses
Spanners
Trolley jack
Axel stands
Tie wraps
Rags
Brake bleeder
Parts Needed:
Braided brake hose kit
Dot 4 Brake fluid
8x m10 washers
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Braided
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Safe!
Applies to:
All MK3's
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First off you need to get a braided line kit, the one I got was a Goodridge one,
prices vary from retailer to retailer but they come in at around £40
Now you need a brake bleeder and some dot 4 brake fluid.
Now you have every thing to start work you need to have the car on a level surface
and put the entire car onto axle stands with the wheels removed,
make sure it is safe to do so.
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Start at the front of the car and locate the union between the solid copper pipe
and the existing rubber pipe. Give this a blast with WD40 and clean with a wire brush to remove any debris.
Using a 13mm spanner, slacken the nut but have a suitable container under
to catch the falling fluid (Corrosive). Take note when slackening the
union to make sure the copper pipe is not seized as when you turn the union
it will twist and misshape the pipe resulting in a new pipe having to be created.
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With the union removed you can now remove the securing nut (17mm spanner) and withdraw the pipe from its mount,
taking care not to loose the washer.
At the other end of the pipe you will need to clean it as before then remove it from the calliper.
You may also notice that the pipe is connected to the shock absorber, simply prise out the rubber bung and pipe.
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Refit the braided line in reverse as you removed it making sure you start at the calliper end and its tight,
keeping the pipe straight push it into the mounting bracket on the inner wing
and add the old washer and the new nut supplied, tighten this up to what you think is tight but not over tight.
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Take the old pipe and remove the plastic guide spring and add it to the new
braided line in the same place above the bracket on the shock absorber.
Be very careful with this next bit not to cut yourself.
Cut off the rubber bung from the pipe and carefully add it to the braided
line and push into the mounting bracket on the shock.
Reattach the copper to flexi union and repeat for the other side front calliper
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Now the back lines, these seam to be a bit of a pain. There are two copper to flexi pipe unions,
one on the inner of the wheel arch, the other on the rear beam.
These need to be cleaned and WD40'd so they can be removed with ease.
Start with the one on the inner arch. Use a 13mm spanner here but also use
the 17mm spanner to hold the pipe still as the mounting bracket is very flimsy
(I nearly broke the welds on mine). Pull out the spring clip from under the edge that holds the pipe to the bracket.
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With that removed, move onto the union on the beam, same principle as the inner arch one.
Make sure you collect the fluid that's lost as it's a nightmare to clean up.
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Now here comes the problem!
The old lines have a moulded in washer and stop on each end to hold it into the brackets.
The new lines do not have this! They don't even include any washers to rectify this.
So in true fiestaguides style you will now need 4 M10 washers for each of the rear pipes, 2 each end.
Put a washer on the pipe then install in bracket followed by another washer then nut.
Tighten up then keeping the pipe straight, do the same on the rear beam.
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Reconnect the copper unions on both ends, repeat for the other side.
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The braking system now needs to be bled of all the air bubbles that will have been ingresses from removing the pipes.
The best way to do this and probably the cheapest is to use a bleed kit,
these can be bought for about £7 but if your like me I begrudged paying that price
so I made a kit out of a 1 pint plastic milk bottle and a length of rubber tube.
Drill a hole in the milk bottle lid and push the pipe in, job done.
Fill the milk bottle with about an inch of brake fluid.
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Fill the brake reservoir to above the max line with dot 4 brake fluid then depress the pedal a few times then check the level.
Make sure its safe and start the car and keep it running to allow the pressure to build up in the master cylinder.
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Start off with the driver's side front wheel. Clean off the bleed nipple,
remove the dirt cap attach the tube from the bleed kit and using an appropriate
size spanner loosen the nipple half a turn then get an assistant to slowly depress
the brake pedal until the fluid runs free of air bubbles into the bottle.
Quickly tighten the nipple. Check the fluid level in the tank and top it up as needed,
Move onto the passenger side rear wheel now and repeat the same procedure here as above.
Check the fluid level in the tank and top it up as needed,
You may have noticed you have worked in a diagonal pattern ,
this is because this is the first circuit on the master cylinder. And the next part the other circuit.
Using the same method as above start on the passenger side front then the drivers side rear.
Check the fluid level in the tank and top it up as needed after each brake,
Again the diagonal pattern.
The brake pedal should now feel stiff with the bite being near the top.
And with the engine turned off the pedal should get rock hard as you press it.
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Replace the wheels and lower the car to the ground. Take it steady for a bit and keep checking the fluid level,
if it lowers you may have a leek and you will need to check all the unions again.
Hope this guide is of some use to some one
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Guide Written and © On 20 Mar 2010 by Andrew Whiteman (AW3K)
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