When you buy a lower spec Fiesta you may notice that there is no electric mod cons fitted.
In this guide we show you how to install the full elecric windows, central locking and remote boot release using genuine ford parts.
Tools Needed:
Socket Set
Torx bit set
Screw Drivers
Knife
Wire cutters/strippers
Soldering Equipment
Drill and bits
Rivot Gun and Rivots
Insulation Tape
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Electric Pack
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5DR Electric pack
You want it!
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Remove the door interior handle, door cards and window winders if there.
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Remove your existing latches, this is done by opening the door and removing
the 3 large screws on the edge of the door.
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Remove all connecting rods (Exterior handle and lock)
from the latch I think by unclipping and twisting
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Unclip the interior handle from the door and remove
as one complete assembly, (Latch and handle)
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You will notice that the C/L latches have the motors attached to them,
do not take them apart.
Feed the latch down into the door and refit and tighten three screws on the edge of the door.
Clip the interior handle from the C/L latch into the door clip all
the rods to the latch and that's it. Repeat for the other door.
Depending on if you got the wiring loom from the donor car this bit may be different.
In each door there will be an existing wire from the car that is for the speaker,
this just removes from the speaker and unclips in the car under
the sill trims, unclip and depress the tabs on the rubber pipe and withdraw.
Install the C/L and maybe electric window loom. By feeding the cables through
the hole in the door and ensure that the rubber pipe is securely attached,
you will hear a series of clicks.
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Remove the manual window regulators by unscrewing the 2 screws that hold the
glass to it through the 2 holes at the top of the door,
then drill out all the rivets, lay the regulator down on
the bottom of the door and remove from the big hole.
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The electric window regulator must be riveted to the door, 2 at the top, 2 at
the bottom and the motor bolted in the same place as the manual regulator.(see above pics)
Lay it down to get it in the door and manoeuvre into position and fix in place.
Add the 2 screws and that's it.
Connect the door loom to the speaker, route the cables in the channel provided
in the door and tie-wrap to secure. Connect the central locking motor
and electric window motor plugs together if installed. They are polarised
so that they only fit one way.
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Dependant on the age of the donor car the electric window switches may be in the
speaker pods/door pockets. If so you will need the pockets and switches.
You will notice a small hole in the lower section of the door, the plastic will
be perforated around it, remove the plastic and pull the cables through and
the rubber grommet will fit exactly in the hole. On your door card if you
look from the rear you will see the same hole there but the material will be intact,
take a sharp knife and cut an "X" into the hole.
This will provide a hole for the cables to pass through.
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Put the door card back on ensuring that the cables are through the hole.
Put the new door pockets on and connect the switches, secure the card then.
Bung the window winder hole with a bung you got from the scrap yard,
if you can't find any They are 46p Ex VAT new from ford, part no. F1656119. Shaddow Grey
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Now into the car.
You will now notice a hole in the car where the rubber pipe will fit. Don't worry.
The rest of the loom that you took from the donor car will come in handy now.
On the passenger side there will two wires in the loom that will run to the
back of the car for the speaker. Remove the trim and lay the cable down.
In that hole in the side of the car you now need to push the big black
multi-plug into it, take note of the tab cut out at the top, push it till it clicks.
The rubber pipe from the door can now be pushed onto the plug and turned
till it clicks, that's all the wiring done for that side.
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Route the loom up under the dash tie-wrapping as you go, until you get to
behind the radio, which needs to be removed along with the heater surroundings,
this makes the next bit easier.
Push the rest of the loom through the gap behind the radio so that all the
remaining loom is in the drivers foot well.
If the loom is correctly laid you will notice that there are the speaker wires
and the boot release button wires behind the radio, the boot release wire
needs to be secured there and drawn down into the centre consol.
Dependant on the age of the car you took the loom out off, there might be
the plugs for the electric windows there, if so pull them down as well,
if not then the switches are in the door. Connect the switches if there.
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For the boot release from newer models you may need to cut a hole for the button,
this is a 5-minute job if you measure correctly and mark out, drill a number
of holes then use a knife to cut the plastic, its only soft so it will be easy.
Its up to you where you want it but the intended position works well next to the gear gaiter.
Back to the loom, tie-wrap it to the metal bar under the dash all the way along
to the drivers door, plug the big round plug into the A pillar and repeat
the steps for the door wiring as described above.
You will notice fuse 25 (boot release) on the loom dangling behind the fuse box;
this clips to the side of the fuse box.
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On this side of the loom there is again speaker cables and the wire that is
needed for the boot release, lay these down the side of the car into the boot.
Once in the boot the black wire for the boot must be connected to the contact
plate, if yours has any plates missing you need to get a complete one from a scrappers.
When you get it make sure you get the part of the loom that is connected to the second
plate in from the right. This has a connector on that the boot release cable connects to.
Install the new plates and connect your loom back to it ensuring that the black wire
for the release is connected to it.
Looking from above left to right
1 wiper motor black
2 wiper motor black violet
3 boot release red and white
4 heated window, thick black and blue
Pin 4 is also the switch for the boot light, it has 2 wires brown and brown red
The above is for the plates on the body not the pins in the boot, but are the same
See picture below.
Also in the pic you may notice that the red white has another connector on it,
if thats the case just plug the boot wire into it, if not then you have to
take the plug apart and push the connector into it.
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Replace all trim panels making sure the loom is not being obstructed.
With the boot open remove all the trim from the actual hatch so that you have
access to the lock area.
You will notice 2 holes in the panel, this is where the boot pop motor secures,
screw it in making sure that the bracket is straight and the wires are at the
lower edge of the boot.
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Unclip the connecting rod from the boot lock then take a large torx bit and remove
the latch from the boot and it should have the connecting rod attached
to it from the lock.
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Attach the connecting rod from the boot pop into the other hole next to the existing rod,
replace the latch but do not tighten up fully, twist both rods into there
connectors in the lock and motor, tighten everything back up and that's it.
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From the motor there is one black wire that must be earthed in the boot,
connect to the earth for the wiper motor, if not installed just screw it to the metal.
The other wire has a plug on it, this connects to the pins in the boot,
remember second one in from the right. Now that's done. Secure the
cables and refit the trim
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That's the entire loom laid down in the car. Now its time to connect it to the fuse box.
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WARNING I TAKE NO RESPONSABILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU MAY CAUSE,
MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.
Disconnect the battery please as you will be playing with the fuse box.
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If your car has the plug under the dash to the left of the column then your lucky,
just connect the multi-plug and add the fuses and test the system,
if not then you need to do a bit more work.
Pull down the loom from the donor car and cut the insulating tape so that
the multi-plug is accessible. Chase the wires back as far as possible,
There will be:
Thick brown
Thick black/yellow
Red/yellow
Grey/yellow
Red/white
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Cut the thick brown wire off where it connects to the other brown wires.
Cut the grey yellow wire off where it joins the rest.
The rest of the cables need to be chased to the fuse box, DO NOT CUT THEM
With the fuse box removed, and relay board separated, find fuse 3 remove
the fuse the wire that goes into this is the red yellow one from the plug.
Get a small flat screwdriver and push it down the side of brass connector,
you may have to do this a few times to release the contact. Pull the cable
and the connector should come out of the fuse box. Now do the same for the
connector directly below it, this will have a thick red and blue wire connected
to it, that is connected to the + bus bar, pull the connector and remove it.
Place to one side.
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Now remove fuse 18 this is for the electric windows, on the connector the wire
will be the black/yellow one from the plug. Remove the connectors as described
above and remove the cable. You will notice that the connector below has a thick
black wire that is connected to the ignition rely, you will have to cut this,
ensure you get a good amount of wire on it and remove from the fuse box.
The red and white wire from the multi-plug goes to the middle of the ignition relay.
Remove the relay and poke out the connector in the same way as described above.
Take the relay with you as well, you'll need it.
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Disconnect the battery please as you will be playing with the fuse box.
On your car you will need to put the cables into your fuse box, repeat the above
but in reverse order into your box.
The thick black wire from fuse 18 will need to be soldered to your existing black wire;
this is easier said than done, as it is a thick cable. Once done insulate the cable
and your sorted.
Group all the cables together and run them back up the loom taping it up as you go
to make it look all-original.
The thick brown wire from the plug can be earthed anywhere, I connected it to
the steering column; just crimp an eyelet on the cable and screw to the chassis.
The grey/yellow wire was soldered to the illumination cables under the dash in
a similar place to where it was cut.
Again insulate and tidy the cables.
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Push together the multi-plug and socket, add the fuses to the fuse box put the
fuse box back and re connect the battery.
Secure all cables and insulate any bare wires with tape.
If you have done it right then the central locking should work from either
door inside and out. If electric windows are installed they should work
as well either from the centre consol or doors, only when the ignition is on.
The boot release will only work if the ignition is in the off position,
it will not allow the boot to be opened while the car is running.
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This guide is exactly the same for the 5 door, but the motors are slightly different
for the rear doors, but same principal, as the loom goes up the B pillar and
through into the door.
Rear door
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Rod guide/protector
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Motor mounts
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Rubber pipe, there will be bungs in the door and pillar to remove,
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A note about PATS
The PATS or Pasive Anti Theft System poses a slight problem with the electric pack.
Regarding the PATS I personally haven't installed any central locking in a car with it,
but there are two different types of PATS if I remember correctly ones with and ones without sensors in the doors.
If you look in the doors and if there is a round plastic thing surrounding the lock with wires coming from it then that's the sensor.
If there is no sensor, you can use the wiring from a non PATS mk3.5 but connect the boot
release wire directly to the wire coming from the middle pin of the ignition relay.
If the sensors are there, then you need to get hold of a PATS set up central locking/Electric
windows Kit that has the control module behind the drivers kick panel.
Remove it all including the relay and fuse that is extra on the side of the fuse box and all
relevant wiring as described in my guide.
Then if you follow the guide it should fit and work.
Another thing that I would like to point out is that the boot release wire on a mk3.5
runs up the pillar on the drivers side of the windscreen, along the roof and into the boot
via a rubber pipe on the drivers side. This virtually eliminates the chances of it not working
due to corroded contacts.
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Hope this guide is of some help.
Guide Written and © On 25 Jun 2004 by Andrew Whiteman (AW3K)
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