This guide is for the fitting of mk3.5, 3-door electric pack, consisting of Electric windows, central locking and electronic boot release.
Add a little luxury to your car.
Tools Needed:
Socket Set
Torx bit set
Screw Drivers
Knife
Wire cutters/strippers
Soldering Equipment
Drill and bits
Rivot Gun and Rivots
Insulation Tape
|
Electric Pack
|
3DR Electric pack
You want it!
|
|
What you need:
Interior loom and socket to main loom
Both door looms
3 electric window switches
1 electric window switch blank
2 door pockets
1 boot release switch
2 window winder hole bungs
Left electric window mechanism and motor
Left central locking motor and interior latch
Right electric window mechanism and motor
Right central locking motor and interior latch
|
|
You need to remove all what is needed from a donor car at a scrap yard or get it from Ebay or equivalent.
To remove the parts you need to remove the door interior handle, door cards and door pockets with electric
window switches if there, disconnect the switches.
Remove the latches; this is done by opening the door and removing the 3 large screws on the edge of the door.
|
|
Remove all connecting rods (Exterior handle and lock) from the latch I think by unclipping and twisting
Unclip the interior handle from the door and remove as one complete assembly, (Latch and handle)
You will notice that the door latches have the motors attached to them, do not take them apart.
Feed the latch down into your door and refit and tighten three screws on the edge of the door.
|
|
Remove the electric window regulators by unscrewing the 2 screws that hold the
glass to it through the 2 holes at the top of the door, then drill out the
4 rivets, top and bottom of the runner and unbolt the 3 nuts holding the motor to the door.
|
|
Unclip the wiring multiplug. Then lay the regulator down on the bottom of the door and remove from the big hole.
|
|
Remove the speakers and disconnect the wiring from the speaker.
Unclip the wiring from inside the door and go to where the wires enter the car via the rubber grommet/pipe.
Twist the pipe upwards and release it from the body. Now get a screwdriver behind the part of the pipe that joins the door and prise it out.
|
|
Pull the wires for the electric window switches back into the door; same applies for the central locking motor wires,
then pull them through the hole and free of the car.
The picture below shows the electric pack door loom along side the original base model door loom.
|
|
Repeat the above for the other door.
Now move onto the interior loom, you will need to remove both trim panels on either
side of the car (kick panels) to gain access to the cable entry points under the dash edge.
Cut all the cable ties under the dash to release the loom.
Under the drivers side of the dash there should be a multiplug that the electric pack loom plugs into.
Simply unclip this and the loom should drop making it easier to remove. Then twist and remove the large plugs from the door pillars.
|
|
You will need to remove the boot release button and disconnect the wiring and pull it free from the centre console.
Remove the radio and disconnect the yellow speaker plug from it, as this is part of the electric pack loom.
|
|
Now into the car.
Depending on the variations of this loom it may be one of around 4 different versions,
each different, some have rear speakers, some don’t, etc
If rear speakers are present then the loom will go to the back of the car on the passenger and drivers sides.
Also on the drivers side may be the boot release wire, again on the mk3.5 loom there
are at least 2 variations of this, one is where the wire follows the same route as the
rear speaker on the drivers side to the contact plate on the boot slam panel,
and version two is where the wire takes a route up the drivers “A” pillar and
down the roof where it is terminated in a small plug just before the boot lid.
This wire then enters the boot via a rubber pipe.
|
|
Whichever method it is, disconnect the wire at where it is terminated and remove the complete loom from the car.
If the method uses the contact plates in the boot, you will need these,
pop them out of the panel using a small flat bladed screwdriver.
The other half will also need removing, two screws hold this in.
Disconnect the all the wires from the pins then remove the interior trim to gain access to inside the boot.
|
|
Disconnect the wire from the boot release motor to the pins then remove the motor by
taking out the two star headed screws visible. Unclip the connecting rod from the motor by twisting the plastic.
Undo the earth point and remove the motor from the boot lid, then go to the latch and
remove it by using a large Torx bit, you will need the connecting rod and its little white holder from the latch.
|
|
Below is the removed boot release motor and rod guide clip
|
|
Here’s the complete interior loom in its full glory.
|
|
Now that’s all the removable bits of the loom took out, now lets look at the socket,
you are best off taking it just in case you don’t have it.
Pull down the loom and start to remove the insulation from around the plug.
Chase the wires back as far as possible,
There will be:
Thick brown: Earth
Thick black/yellow: Electric Windows live (Switched)
Red/yellow: Central locking live (Permanent)
Grey/yellow: Illumination
Red/white: Boot release live (Switched)
|
|
Cut the thick brown wire off where it connects to the other brown wires.
Cut the grey yellow wire off where it joins the rest.
The rest of the cables need to be chased to the fuse box, DO NOT CUT THEM
With the fuse box removed, and relay board separated,
Find fuse 3 remove the fuse the wire that goes into this is the red yellow one from the plug.
Get a small flat screwdriver and push it down the side of brass connector,
you may have to do this a few times to release the contact. Pull the cable and the
connector should come out of the fuse box.
|
|
Now do the same for the connector directly below it, this will have a thick red and blue wire connected to it,
that is connected to the + bus bar, fuse19 and a relayIII, poke these connectors in, then pull the
connectors out. This will differ on various models, not all cars had the relay.
|
|
|
Now remove fuse 18 this is for the electric windows, on the connector the wire will be the
black/yellow one from the plug. Remove the connectors as described above and remove the cable.
|
|
You will notice that the connector below it has a thick black wire that is connected to the ignition rely,
various other wire/fuses and the black from the ignition switch.
You will have to cut this, ensure you get a good amount of wire on it and remove from the fuse box.
|
|
The red and white wire from the multi-plug goes to the middle of the ignition relay.
Remove the relay and poke out the connector in the same way as described above.
Take the relay with you as well, you’ll need it.
|
|
Here is what you are left with, a number of wires and a multiplug.
|
|
Now that’s all the removal done let’s concentrate on the refitting.
Set to it and remove all the door furniture as mentioned above but you will need to remove the window winders,
a task in it self, push a screwdriver in between the handle and plastic ring and prise the clip off,
be careful here as you could loose the clip or worse still your eye.
Remove the door card and bung the hole for the window winders with the plastic bung,
make sure it’s the same colour and these can still be bought from ford for around 50p each.
|
|
In each door there will be an existing wire from the car that is for the speaker,
this just removes from the speaker and unclips in the car under the sill trims,
unclip and depress the tabs on the rubber pipe and withdraw and prise out the door side with a screwdriver..
|
|
Install the electric pack door loom. By feeding the wires through the hole in the door
and ensure that the rubber pipe is securely attached, you will hear a series of clicks.
|
|
|
Refit the electric window mechanisms into your doors by first removing the old ones using the same method,
as above but instead of removing the bolts, there will be two more rivets, drill these out and withdraw the mechanism.
Put the electric one in its place and bolt it in and rivet the runners in place.
Don’t forget to screw the glass back to the runner.
|
|
Connect the door loom to the speaker, refit the speaker, route the cables in the
channel provided in the door and tie-wrap to secure.
Here’s where the differences between the mk3 versions are more apparent,
the mk3.5 central locking motor has no flying leads with connectors on the end
that need to be plugged into the loom mid door. The mk3.5 has one, four-pinned connector
that plugs directly into the motor. Below is a picture of the mk3 and 3.5 connectors for comparison.
|
|
This connector will just fit through the holes in the door, so don’t worry.
The electric window motors connections are exactly the same as the mk3.
Push it home till it clicks into place. They are polarised so that they only fit one way.
|
|
|
As it is a mk3.5 loom the electric window switches are inside the door pockets. You will need the pockets and switches.
You will notice a small hole in the lower section of the door, the plastic will be perforated around it,
remove the plastic and pull the cables through and the rubber grommet will fit exactly in the hole.
On your door card if you look from the rear you will see the same hole there but the material will be intact,
take a sharp knife and cut an “X” into the hole. This will provide a hole for the cables to pass through.
If such hole and perforation is not there for any such reason, you will need to make the holes using a hole saw.
|
|
Put the door card back on ensuring that the cables are through the hole. Put the new door pockets
on and connect the switches, secure the card then bung the window winder hole with a bung you got from the scrap yard,
If you can't find any they are 46p Ex VAT new from ford, part no. F1656119. Shadow Grey
|
|
Now into the car. You will now notice a hole in the car where the rubber pipe will fit. Don’t worry.
The rest of the loom that you took from the donor car will come in handy now.
On the passenger side there will two wires in the loom that will run to the back of the car for the speaker.
Remove the trim and lay the cable down. (loom depandant)
In that hole in the side of the car you now need to push the big black multi-plug into it,
take note of the tab cut out at the top, push it in and turn it anti clockwise to secure it.
|
|
The rubber pipe from the door can now be pushed onto the plug and turned till it clicks,
that’s all the wiring done for that side.
|
|
|
Route the loom up under the dash tie-wrapping as you go, until you get to behind the radio,
which needs to be removed along with the heater surroundings, this makes the next bit easier.
Push the rest of the loom through the gap behind the radio so that all the remaining loom is in the drivers foot well.
If the loom is correctly laid you will notice that there are the speaker wires and the boot release
button wires behind the radio, the boot release wire needs to be secured there and drawn down into the centre consol.
On fiestas with grey centre consoles you will need to cut a hole for the button, this is a 5-minute job
if you measure correctly and mark out, drill a number of holes then use a knife to cut the plastic,
its only soft so it will be easy. Its up to you where you want it but the intended position works well
next to the gear gaiter. If the console is black, the button hole will be there with a blanking plug over it,
prise it out and push the button into the hole.
|
|
|
Back to the loom, tie-wrap it to the metal bar under the dash all the way along to the drivers door,
plug the big round plug into the A pillar and repeat the steps for the door wiring as described above.
You will notice fuse 25 (boot release) on the loom dangling; this clips to the side of the fuse box.
On this side of the loom there is again rear speaker cables and the wire that is needed for the boot release,
lay these down the side of the car into the boot. Once in the boot the black coated white/red wire for
the boot release must be connected to the contact plate, if yours has any plates missing you need to get a
complete one from a scrappers. When you get it make sure you get the part of the loom that is connected
to the second plate in from the right. This has a connector on that the boot release cable connects to.
Looking from above left to right
1 wiper motor black
2 wiper motor black violet
3 boot release red and white
4 heated window, thick black and blue
Pin 4 is also the switch for the boot light, it has 2 wires brown and brown red
The above is for the plates on the body not the pins in the boot, but are the same
See picture below.
Also in the picture you may notice that the red white has another connector on it,
If that’s the case just plug the boot wire into it, if not then you have to
take the plug apart and push the connector into it.
|
|
The mk3.5 loom may need altering at this point as the boot release wire is intended
to enter the boot lid via a rubber pipe on the top right of the lid.
On mk3’s this hole is not there and it would be pointless in trying to make it.
Simply lay the wire down as described above and terminate the wire in a blade receptacle connector.
|
|
|
Install the new plates and connect your loom back to it ensuring that the black wire for the release is connected to it.
Replace all trim panels making sure the loom is not being obstructed.
With the boot open remove all the trim from the actual hatch so that you have access to the lock area.
You will notice 2 holes in the panel, this is where the boot pop motor secures,
screw it in making sure that the bracket is straight and the wires are at the lower edge of the boot.
|
|
|
Unclip the connecting rod from the boot lock then take a large Torx bit and remove
the latch from the boot and it should have the connecting rod attached to it from the lock.
|
|
|
Attach the connecting rod from the boot pop into the other hole next to the existing rod,
replace the latch but do not tighten up fully, twist both rods into there connectors in the lock and motor,
tighten everything back up and that’s it.
|
|
|
From the motor there is one black wire that must be earthed in the boot,
connect to the earth for the wiper motor, if not installed just screw it to the metal.
The other wire has a plug on it, this connects to the pins in the boot,
remember second one in from the right. Now that’s done. Secure the cables and refit the trim.
|
|
That’s the entire loom laid down in the car. Now its time to connect it to the fuse box.
|
|
|
WARNING I TAKE NO RESPONSABILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU MAY CAUSE, MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING.
Disconnect the battery please as you will be playing with the fuse box.
If your car has the plug under the dash to the left of the column then your lucky,
just connect the multi-plug and add the fuses and test the system, if not then you need to do a bit more work.
|
|
|
Pull down the original loom from your car and cut the insulating tape in the place
where the other half of the multiplug lies.
On the multiplug there will be:
Thick brown: Earth
Thick black/yellow: Electric Windows live (Switched)
Red/yellow: Central locking live (Permanent)
Grey/yellow: Illumination
Red/white: Boot release live (Switched)
|
|
|
Find the hole for fuse 3 and push the red yellow wire from the plug into it.
Now for the connector directly below it, this will have a thick red and blue wire connected to it,
this is connected to the +12v bus bar, relayIII and fuse19 if there, push the connector
into the fuse hole and to the +12v Bus bar
|
|
|
Now find the hole for fuse 18 this is for the electric windows, on the connector
the wire will be the black/yellow. Push the connector into the hole in the fuse box.
|
|
|
You will need the connector below which is a thick black wire that is connected
to the ignition rely, you will have to solder this to the existing black wire
from the relay, this is easier said than done, as it is a thick cable.
Once done insulate the cable and your sorted. As more than likely the connector
already in the fuse box will be missing the desired section, hence having to take it out of the donor car.
|
|
|
The red and white wire from the multi-plug goes to the middle of the ignition relay.
Remove the relay and poke out the connector block and insert the connector into
the connector block and push home. Insert the new relay with the extra pin.
|
|
The grey/yellow wire needs to be soldered to the illumination cables under the dash in a similar place to where it was cut.
|
|
The thick brown wire from the plug can be earthed anywhere, I connected it to the steering column;
just crimp an eyelet on the cable and screw to the chassis.
Insulate and tidy the cables.
|
|
Group all the cables together and run them back up the loom taping it up as you go to make it look original.
excuse the mess on the picture as i hadn't finished with the loom ;)
Push together the multi-plug and socket, add the fuses to the fuse box put the fuse box back and re connect the battery.
Secure all cables and insulate any bare wires with tape.
|
|
If you have done it right then the central locking should work from either door inside and out. If electric windows are installed they should work as well, only when the ignition is on.
The boot release will only work if the ignition is in the off position, it will not allow the boot to be opened while the car is running.
|
|
|
A note about PATS
The PATS or Pasive Anti Theft System poses a slight problem with the electric pack.
Regarding the PATS I personally haven't installed any central locking in a car with it,
but there are two different types of PATS if I remember correctly ones with and ones without sensors in the doors.
If you look in the doors and if there is a round plastic thing surrounding the lock with wires coming from it then that's the sensor.
If there is no sensor, you can use the wiring from a non PATS mk3.5 but connect the boot
release wire directly to the wire coming from the middle pin of the ignition relay.
If the sensors are there, then you need to get hold of a PATS set up central locking/Electric
windows Kit that has the control module behind the drivers kick panel.
Remove it all including the relay and fuse that is extra on the side of the fuse box and all
relevant wiring as described in my guide.
Then if you follow the guide it should fit and work.
|
|
|
And that’s it the end of the guide, I hope you find it useful.
Enjoy
Guide Written and © On 6 Oct 2005 by Andrew Whiteman (AW3K)
|
