Fiestaguides.co.uk > Guides > Mechanical

Here is a guide that will show you how to install or transplant
a 2.0L mondeo 16v zetec engine into a mk3 8V 1.6 XR2I.
This guide is quite complex and shouldn't be attempted by the faint hearted,
it involves removing your engine, gearbox and various other parts along with
rebuilding a zetec engine with fiesta add on parts.

Tools Needed:

Socket set
Torx key bits
Torque Wrench
Chisels
Trolley Jack
Axle Stands
Wire brush
Engine Stand
Cam locking tool

Parts Needed:

This is my list of parts, i got some 2nd hand. prices were correct at time of writing.

Description Part No. Manufacturer Unit Price Qty Required Total Price

2.0L mondeo engine N/A Ford (2nd Hand) Ł100 1 Ł100

2.0L Mondeo Maf Sensor
2.0L Mondeo Throttle Body
Fiesta Zetec 1.6/1.8 inlet manifold and throttle body N/A Ford (2nd Hand) Ł10 1 Ł10

Fiesta Zetec Sump, oil pick up pipe,
Oil Dip stick and mount
and flywheel with Crank Position Sensor N/A Ford (2nd Hand) Ł20 1 of each Ł20

Fiesta Zetec Radiator and Exhaust manifold
Down pipe with cat, or de cat N/A Ford (2nd Hand) Ł10 1 of each Ł10

Mondeo Ecu (DEEP, DESK, DEWY),
water pipes and engine mount
Fiesta Zetec Gearbox Shim,
alternator pulley,
exhaust hanger, zetec cross member N/A Ford (2nd Hand) Ł65 1 of each Ł65

Oil pressure switch XOPS9 QH Ł6.52 1 Ł6.52

Fiesta Zetec Water pump QCP2889 QH Ł29.98 1 Ł29.98
Fiesta Zetec Water Pump Pulley 7315341 Ford Ł17.90 1 Ł17.90
Cam Belt Kit GBK035360XS PowerGrip Ł66.97 1 Ł66.97

AUX Belt 6PK905 PowerGrip Ł7.00 1 Ł7.00

Spark Plugs OE029/T10 champion Ł2.56 4 Ł10.24

Rocker cover gasket JN950 Payen Gaskets Ł7.30 1 Ł7.30
Inlet Manifold Gasket JD264 Payen Gaskets Ł4.28 1 Ł4.28
Inlet Sandwich Plate Gasket JD265 Payen Gaskets Ł7.76 1 Ł7.76

Sump Gasket JJ531 Payen Gaskets Ł8.22 1 Ł8.22
Exhaust Manifold Gasket JE5021 Payen Gaskets Ł7.93 1 Ł7.93

Gasket sealant Gasket Blue HYLOMARL Ł4.22 1 Ł4.22
Oil pick up gasket 1663908 Ford Ł0.86 1 Ł0.86

Oil pick up Bolts 1663909 Ford Ł0.47 2 Ł0.94

Oil breather gasket 1094552 Ford Ł3.78 1 Ł3.78
Sump Bolts 1008757 Ford Ł0.55 10 Ł5.50
Cam shaft bolt 6599022 Ford Ł1.29 1 Ł1.29
Throttle body gasket 6604894 Ford Ł1.44 1 Ł1.44
Inlet Bolts 6647741 Ford Ł0.45 9 Ł3.66

Inlet Nuts 6518102 Ford Ł0.89 2 Ł1.78
Thermostat o ring 6974940 Ford Ł2.19 1 Ł2.19

Thermostat gasket 6627000 Ford Ł0.97 1 Ł0.97
EGR Blanking plugs 6732263 Ford Ł1.48 4 Ł5.52

EGR Copper Washers 1008597 Ford Ł0.22 4 Ł0.88
Exhaust stud 6775621 Ford Ł1.69 9 Ł15.21

Exhaust Nut 6518102 Ford Ł0.89 9 Ł8.81

Flywheel bolts 6952658 Ford Ł1.02 6 Ł6.12

Crank Position Sensor bush(Non auto) 1663863 Ford Ł4.70 1 Ł4.70
Injector seals 6851339 Ford Ł2.10 4 Ł8.40

Exhaust Back Box N/A Bosal Ł33.00 1 Ł33.00
Exhaust Mid section N/A Bosal Ł30.00 1 Ł30.00

Air Filter and intake pipe N/A Sports (K and N etc) Ł20.00 1 Ł20.00

Total Cost With new and 2nd Hand parts Ł537.57

You will also need the following from the CVH Engine

cvh gearbox and clutch
cvh gearbox mounts
cvh alternator and starter
cvh alternator bracket

Power

Feel the power

Ayeeeee!

First stage is to make sure you have an engine stand, without one of these you would
be stuck as moving an engine on your own is murder. Also you will need some
M10 nuts, bolts and washers to hold the engine to the stand.

With the engine stand safe, you need to buy a 2.0L mondeo engine,
either from scrap yards, ebay or even new. I got mine from a local breakers' for Ł100, it was from an automatic,
which is the best ones to get as they were never thrashed.
On the block it will say 20, make sure it does,
as some people will try and pass a 1.6 or 1.8 engine as a 2.0L. 03.jpg

Remove the flywheel from the engine; this is done by removing the 6 - 18mm bolts.
you may have to lock the flywheel to stop it rotating while you slacken them.
Get the head from the engine stand and use the M10 bolts to attach the engine,
I used the top two threaded holes in the block and the lower two non threaded holes with washers and nuts.
Make sure these are tight.
Grease the shaft from the engine stand, get someone to help you slide it onto the base and lock it in position.

Front engine

There you have it, a workable engine that can be moved about.
Now the fun bit start to strip it down.
My engine had both inlet and exhaust manifolds, PAS pump and engine mounts still on.
Spray all visible nuts and bolts with WD40 and leave to work for a bit.

If yours has any water pipes still attached, cut off or undo them first then work
on the front engine mount, remove this, it is attached by TX50 bolts,
these will be tight, use an impact wrench or socket to "break" the seal.
Bin, scrap or sell the mount as its no good.

Now the exhaust manifold, remove this with a deep 13mm socket, these will be stiff as they rust like hell.
You may find on the manifold there is a metal pipe that travels round the back of the engine,
take it off, it's a 24mm spanner at ever end and 2 8mm bolts under the coil bracket.
Withdraw with the manifold and again do as you please with it

Use a stud extractor or reversed torx bit remove the exhaust studs,
you can either reuse them if they aren't too rusty or buy new ones, part numbers will follow. In the picture below you will see a stud that wouldn't come out, resulting in the end being mashed,
to remove this without a special tool, you need two nuts and a spring washer,
put the first nut on back to front then the spring washer and finally the other nut.
Tighten these together compressing the washer. Using a spanner undo the stud by
turning the rear nut, this would then tighten up onto the outer nut gripping it and rotating the stud.

Now remove the thermostat housing, 3 10mm bolts, pull it away from the block and set to one side,
bin the o-ring and the gasket, new ones will need to be installed.

Remove the HT leads from the top of the engine but leave them on the coil.
Remove the coil pack from its bracket, again 4 8mm bolts.
Remove the Coil bracket, it has 3 T50 I think bolts holding it on. Put these in your box to keep

Now that's the front of the engine stripped down, looks pretty bare, good, that's what you want.

Now move onto the cam belt side.
Using a 8mm socket remove the top belt cover followed by the upper side cover, place in the box to keep.
You may have to remove some of the mondeo aux belt pulleys, dispose of these, as they have no use.

On the first picture there is a pulley with 4 8mm bolts on it, remove this pulley and keep it.

With the pulley and cover removed you can now see the belt. Ready for you to work on it.

Now its time to get the engine to top dead centre,
remove the spark plugs then the cam cover and set aside.
This will show the cams

Rotate the bottom pulley till the 2nd notch is inline with the lobe on the sump,
use a bit of metal to get this right

If that's right then the cams will be at top dead centre as well,
meaning that the cuts in the ends are horizontal,
use a straight bar lock the cams, I used a set square, this is so they don't rotate.

Using an impact wrench on the bottom pulley hit it had to "break" the seal and remove the bolt from the camshaft,
please note that the nut might round off, like mine did,
hence why the nut and pulley is damaged, had to use a hammer and chisel, which slipped opps.

Pull the pulley free from the shaft and remove the bottom belt cover.

Notice the rollers, these will need to be removed and discarded ideally.

Make sure the engine is still at TDC, the keyway or notch on the camshaft should be facing up.

Remove the belt tension and the two guide rollers with a torx bit and remove the belt.

With the belt removed you need to remove the water pump as the mondeo one rotates the wrong way.
Use a 10mm socket and undo the four bolts, remove the pump and clean off the old gasket from the block.

Strip the back of the engine now.

Start off with removing the throttle body,
Use a small torx bit and remove the 4-torx screws and any wiring attached.
Keep this, as you will need it.

Now remove the fuel rail and keep it, there are 4 10mm bolts holding this to the inlet.

Use a 13mm deep socket and remove the bolts from the inlet and knock it off the block,
sell or bin this as its no good. This will leave the back of the block nearly bare.

Remove the rear engine mount
15mm bolts and some t50 torx bits. And then the studs as they wont work with the fiesta mounts.
There is also some kind of bracket at the bottom of the engine, this needs to be removed as well.

Remove the oil pressure switch with a 24mm socket and bung the hole with some card.

Remove the sensor from the top of the engine, this is a 10mm socket.

Drain the oil, remove the sump plug and let the oil drain into a bucket.
Unscrew the oil filter and bin it.

Now that's the back of the engine stripped. Now the mucky bits!

With the oil removed you can take out the oil dipstick, twist and pull the pipe out.

Now the oil breather, take it off, 3 - 8mm bolts and remove the pipe and pull from the block.
The pipe is also attached on the side of the block. Discard the gasket

On the right of the block you need to remove the Crank position sensor,
notice this is held in an aluminium bung, remove this with a torx bit. And set aside.

Clean off the block with a wire brush making sure you get all rust and loose paint off.

Using the engine stand, rotate the engine and remove the sump bolts then the
sump, sell or bin it, along with the bolts as they will be no good.
Clean off the mating surface on the block ensuring no gasket ends up in the engine.

The oil pick up pipe needs to be removed as well as it's the wrong shape. 2 torx screws hold this on. Again clean the surface to remove the gasket.

Now that's the engine fully stripped down, its up to you if you want to paint
the engine block or not, it will stop it rusting and it looks nice.
Also paint the oil pump if you want. Let the paint dry.

Now the fun and expensive part starts
Rebuilding

Start at the bottom with the oil pick up.
You need a fiesta pick up pipe and brand new bolts and a gasket.

Make sure you clean it with a degreaser so its easier to handle.

Oil pick up gasket 1663908 x1 @ 86p
Oil pick up bolts1663909 x2 @ 47p each = 94p

Bolt up the new pipe making sure you fit the gasket. And tighten up to torque 8NM

Now you need a fiesta sump as the mondeo one is wrong.
Before you fit it, you need to clean it,
use a degreaser; dry it off and you might want to paint it like I did. ONLY the outside of it!

You need a tube of gasket sealant and a new rubber gasket,
I got both of these from my local motor factors,
the gasket cost Ł11 and the sealant Ł5.

Make sure the gasket surface is clean and lay the gasket
in the groove and press in along the sump.

Apply gasket sealant to the round section and to the
corners of the sump as per instructions on the tube.

Place the sump onto the engine, using a straight edge make sure the end is square

You will need new sump bolts from ford as they have an integrated washer.
You will need 10 of these
Sump bolts 1008757 x10 Ł0.55 each Ł5.50

Place the sump onto the engine and finger tight all the bolts then torque down the middle two to
the correct torque then work outwards in a diagonal pattern,
notice the sealant oozes out, this is normal.

There you have it the sump fitted, looks nice don't it.

Turn the engine back over and fit the oil breather back to the front of the engine,
use a new gasket(Notice its made of metal not fibre), also you might want to paint it in a nice contrasting colour.

Oil breather gasket 1094552 x1 @ Ł3.78

Reconnect the rubber pipe and the metal pipe to the back of the engine to the block.

Fit the coil bracket to the block followed by the thermostat housing ensuring you fit a new o ring seal and gasket,

Thermostat o ring 6974940 x1 Ł2.19
Thermostat gasket 6627000 x1 Ł0.97

Use some grease on the gasket to make it stick to the housing;
tighten up the bolts to 18NM torque

On the back of the engine, fit a new oil pressure switch,
I got mine from the local motor factors, mine cost around Ł6
Tighten it up to 28 NM

Now the water pump, remember you need a fiesta one and new bolts,
the pump will come with a new gasket.
It again came from a motor factors and cost around Ł25
Clean the mating surfaces and apply a small amount of grease on both sides and stick it to the block.
Mate up the pump and bolt it down to the specified torque 18NM

I would advise fitting a new timing belt KIT, not just the belt.
The kit comes with rollers and tension roller.

Fit the rollers to the water pump casing and torque up to 38NM.

Fit the new spring retainer

Clip the tension roller onto its lug then fit the bolt finger
tight and apply the spring to the other peg

Make sure you use an Allen key to rotate the tensionor against
the spring and nip the bolt up enough to hold it there.

Make sure the timing is still set, start at the bottom pulley and work counter clockwise
keeping the belt as tight as you can wrapping it across the two cams and back down the side,
around the tension roller and down to the last guide roller. You should be where you started from now.

Release the tensioner gently so it rests on the belt with the bolt slack,
remove all the cam locking tools and rotate the bottom pulley 2 times,
check the timing on the cams again, adjust the sprockets if needed.
Then again rotate the pulley a further two times and check again.

If you are happy with the timing, torque up bolt on the tensioner to 38NM.
The belt should be able to turn 90degrees but not slack enough to come off the cams.

Refit the lower and upper belt covers then the bottom pulley.
You will need a new bolt (and maybe a pulley if your like me)
lock the flywheel so it won't turn

Refit the water pump pulley (Making sure its a ribbed one, not shown in pic)

Now its time to fit the rocker cover, you will need a new gasket,
this cost around Ł7.30 from my local motor factors.

If you want you can paint your cover, simply rub it back and paint.
Fit a new rocker cover gasket and refit the cover tightening the bolts to the correct torque.

Fit the oil dipstick tube into the block and bolt it to the head

You will need to modify the rear engine-lifting eye from the mondeo unless you have a spare fiesta one.
Below is a before and after. Bolt it to the block on the rear left side.

Now lets look at the exhaust manifold.

I painted mine but don't do it unless the paint is ultra high temp, you will need new studs, nuts and a gasket.
The nuts and studs are ford only parts.

Exhaust stud 6775621 x9 Ł1.69 each Ł15.21
Exhaust nut 6518102 x9 Ł0.89 each Ł8.01
Gasket around Ł6 from the motor factors

Use an inverted torx bit to install the studs into the block to the specified torque of 18NM

Place the gasket onto the studs followed by the manifold and tighten
the nuts up to the specified torque of 18NM in a diagonal pattern.

You may notice there are 4 holes in the manifold;
you need to block these up unless you are refitting
the exhaust gas re circulation device.

If not you need the bungs and washers from ford,

EGR Blanking plugs - 6732263 x4 Ł1.38 each Ł5.52
EGR Copper Washers - 1008597 x4 Ł0.22 each Ł0.88

Place one washer onto the plug then use an Allen key to tighten them up.

The Crank position sensor bung now needs to be changed as the automatic one
from the mondeo wont line up with the fiesta flywheel.

Fit the sensor into it and fit this back into the block and torque up.

Turn the engine around and start to work on the inlet manifold.
You will need an inlet manifold and sandwich plate from a RS1800 fiesta.
Although a 1.6 one will work as well but not give you as much power.

The sandwich plate will need to be cleaned before it is fitted,
I also recommend removing the fuel rail as the fiesta one will be no good
Also give the inlet a good clean removing any old gaskets and dirt.

You will need two studs with nuts and 8 bolts to hold it on along with a
sandwich plate gasket that fits between the block and the injector plate.

Inlet bolts 6647741 x8
Inlet nuts 6518102 x2
Gasket cost around Ł8 from motor factors

Refit the old inlet studs to the corners followed by the gasket
and then the sandwich plate, use the nuts and tighten them up.

Now fit the next gasket then the rest of the manifold and bolt it up

Fit new seals to the 2.0L injector rail and fit it into the manifold and tighten up.

Fit the fuel pipe bracket to the inlet then fit the fuel pipes to the rail,
take note that the fiesta and mondeo pipes are different. 2.0L rail needs 2.0L pipes

Connect the vacuum pipe from the rail to the inlet and connect the wiring loom to each of the injectors.

Refit the sensor on the back of the head

Bolt up the base part of the engine mount to the block

You can use the zetec or CVH alternator bracket on the engine, I used the CVH one.

Fit the bracket to the front of the engine making sure it's the right way up.
Again clean it and paint it if you want.
Bolt up the alternator bracket to the block above the sump

Take the CVH alternator and remove the pulley, Take the Zetec alternator
and remove the pulley and swap it to the CVH alternator,
Make sure you fit the fins back to the CVH alternator.
You may have to play around with the washers to get the
pulley to sit inline with the other pulleys.

Hook the alternator onto the CVH mount followed by the belt,
use a pri-bar to tension the belt then tighten it up.
Notice the minimal clearance on the bracket, this is fine

NOTE: Make sure you use a ribbed Pulley on the water pump, not the smooth one in the pic.

Fit the heat shield to the exhaust manifold

Now its time to have a look at the THROTTLE BODY.

Below is a picture of the 1.6 and the 2.0L variants, as you can see the size is vast,
and the throttle linkage is totally different,
you will need to alter the 2.0L one to accept the fiesta linkage.
Left pic shows the fiesta linkage right shows the mondeo one.

Remove the throttle position sensor this is usually 2 small torx bits.

Then use another torx bit to remove the throttle cable bracket
use a 10mm socket and remove all the mondeo linkage, this is all useless.

Now grind the little lump off in front of the screw hole that holds the cable guide.
This is in the way for the fiesta guide.

Offer up the fiesta guide and bolt it to the hole on the side of the throttle body
Notice that the bottom hole won't align at all,

Also notice on the pic the line where it needs to be cut, use a dermal to lob it off.

Dismantle the fiesta throttle body and transfer the inner arm directly to the 2.0L
one and bolt up making sure the spring is seated correctly
and the metal tab is flat, it will only fit one way.

Now the outer arm, this is plastic and if you try it over the metal pin it wont fit,
so you need to drill it out to fit. Its about a 10mm drill bit.

Offer it up and keep drilling it out until it rotates freely,
when it does this you will notice that it wont achieve wide open
throttle as it catches the casting,
simply mark up and cut it off with a dermal or file it away

Fit both springs in the same way they came from the fiesta followed by the outer arm then the retaining bolt, tighten it up and rotate the plastic arm,
this should now open the throttle and snap shut when let go.

Use a new gasket and fit the throttle body to the inlet manifold

Remove your old engine, radiator and gearbox and engine wiring in
any way you want as long as its safe, we used two jacks and blocks of wood.

From your old engine you will need to keep the gearbox and clutch

Now you need the other part of the zetec engine mount,

As you can see if you offer it up in the original mounting points it wont fit at all.

Mark the new hole to be drilled and drill it bigger than the thread to allow movement

Unplug the engine loom from the bulkhead and ecu(2 x20mm bolts
then another 10mm holding the plug in) and remove from the engine bay.

Unclip the ecu and allow it to drop into the car.

Remove the cage from the ecu and bolt the 2.0L mondeo one coded
(DEEP, DESK or DEWY) back in place so not to get it damaged

Here is the zetec engine loom(left) compared to the one removed,

Here is also a comparison of the plug that connects it to the car, grey one zetec

Here is a pic of the plugs on the main loom

And now the sensor sub loom, For the oil pressure, temperature and coil

Lay the new loom into the engine bay but don't connect the ecu yet to avoid damage.
Now you need to alter the main loom plug, I found it easy to get a plug to plug
into the 8V loom from scrap yard, break open the zetec plug and remove the pins needed,
transplanting them into the new plug using the table below to match up the wire colours
between the two looms. Any spare pins need to be insulated and taped up

CVH Engine Loom

CVH Pin No. CVH Wire Colour Description

1 Black Ignition Live

2 Black/Red HEGO Sensor

3 Green Rev Counter

4 Brown Fuel Pump Relay

5 Black/Green Fuel Injection Relay

6 Brown/Green Oil pressure switch

7 Red Permanent live from fuse 1

8 N/A N/A

Zetec Engine Loom

Zetec Pin No. Zetec Wire Colour Description

1 Brown Unknown

2 Green Rev Counter

3 Brown Fuel Pump Relay

4 Black Ignition Live

5 Black/Red HEGO Sensor

6 Red Permanent live from fuse 1

7 Brown/Green Oil pressure switch

8 Black/Green Fuel Injection Relay

9 Brown/White Temperature Gauge sender

10 N/A N/A

11 N/A N/A

12 N/A N/A

The water temperature sender wire will need to be chased back through the
CVH loom as it was not on the engine loom, this needs to be connected
into the car side of the CVH loom so when the zetec loom is connected it will work the dash display.
Also the engine coolant temp switch wires need to be extended as this was on the top right of the engine,
and now on the zetec conversion it is on the bottom left of the radiator. Use good quality high amp wire for this.

The wire for the oil pressure switch on the zetec sensor loom doesn't go directly into the engine loom
it goes via a plug on the far left of the engine bay, this needs to be removed the placed
in the plug from the engine loom to the car loom, the wire colour is green/ red.

its not this plug in the pic but it looks identical.

The HEGO Sensor wire Black/Red will need to be extended from the zetec engine loom
(I had to use another plug) into the car via the rubber grommet behind the header tank to the fuse box,

Notice that on the CVH fuse box there is one fuse missing, this is where the HEGO sensor fuse lives,
using terminals from an old fuse box you need to connect them up.
Connect one side to the wire from the engine bay and the other to the ignition live from the fuel pump relay,
so the HEGO only gets power when the fuel pump works. Fit the 10amp fuse, put every thing back.

Lift the engine off its stand and support the weight mid air

When you removed your old engine you will need to keep the dowels from the block for the gearbox,
as you can see in this pic the ones for the mondeo are too big.
Knock the fiesta ones into the block

Now you will need the zetec fiesta shim plate, ford no longer make this so you will need it from a scrap yard.
You also will notice there is a hole where the shim is on the back of the block,
this is because the mondeo block has the starter motor to the rear,
and the fiesta one to the front. If you wish you could plate it up or leave it, I left it.

Fit the zetec fiesta flywheel, making sure you fit new bolts and thread
lock them and ensure the are to 110 NM torque.

Now fit the clutch, making sure you thread lock the bolts, the CVH clutch fits
fine onto the zetec flywheel. Make sure you use a clutch alignment
tool then tighten the bolts up to 25-34 NM.

While the block was on the crane I noticed the two holes on the back of the inlet,
get a bit of tube and connect them together, this is part of the EGR system that was removed.

Fit the engine mount to the rear mounting block

Offer up and bolt the gearbox to the block, you will need two people for this.
Notice the hole that was mentioned above, nothing to worry about.

Fit the starter motor to the gearbox/block. I used the CVH one, but you can use the zetec one as long as its front mounted

Using an engine crane lift the front of the car up as high as it can get,
we wrapped rope around the lower cross member.
Support the car on axle stands and blocks of wood.

Slide the engine under the car and lift up with the crane into the engine bay.
Making sure the rear engine mount is in position, bolt it up loose and fit the cradle to chassis bolts,
tighten these up fully and go back to the rear mount, tighten it up.

Refit the drive shafts taking car not to damage them, this is the same as removal but reversed,
making sure you fit new sealing rings.
Reconnect the gear linkage and clutch cable in the same place as it was removed

Connect the fuel lines now; the zetec has a push fit design where as the CVH had screw fit.
The only way around this is to remove the banjo connector from the old pipe and fit to a length of new hose.

Fit a jubilee clip and reattach to the filter with new copper washers

Connect the other end to the pipe from the cam belt side of the fuel rail,
this is the feed.

Now on the bulkhead there will be the fuel return, this needs to be connected to the return from the rail.

Connect the vacuum pipe from the brake cylinder to the side of the inlet manifold

Now start to connect the wiring, plug the sensor multiplug into the loom then the injector loom.
But which plugs? Easy they only fit one, as they are all different sizes.

Notice on the bulkhead there will be a few plugs that aren't used,
and also sensors like the one below, this is for the EGR again, remove and discard.

Refit the starter motor and alternator wiring to the rest of the loom and to the motor and alternator as well.

Fit the exhaust down pipe to the manifold using new springs and gasket

The early cross members had no provision for the exhaust hangers,
so these will need to be drilled, or at least one set of holes enlarged,
do this then fit the cross member back on along as a rubber hanger to hold the down pipe secure,
you can add another at a later date if you so wish.

Plug in the HEGO sensor into the engine loom

Start to plumb in the water system now.

Start by fitting the zetec radiator back into the car followed by the CVH fan ,
making sure you connect up the fan and newly modified switch wring plugs.

Fit the bottom hose from the water pump to the bottom of the radiator along with the hose to the water rail across the manifold. Make sure you use the new jubilee clips. This hose also connects to the bottom of the header tank.

The hose from the top right of the radiator connects to the thermostat housing

The hose from the back of the thermostat housing connects to the heater matrix.
The other heater matrix hose connects to the front left side of the radiator

The thin hose from the top of the thermostat housing connects to the top of the header tank.

This is the last pipe to connect, leave it off at the thermostat housing until you have filled the coolant system.
This will allow air to escape and not cause an air lock. You will need 7.0L of quality coolant/Antifreeze/Water

Now onto the Throttle cable Route it around the front of the engine clipping it to the water pipe,
over the cam cover to the side of the throttle body. Loop the barrel into the plastic part of the control then push the outer
cable into its stop adjusting as necessary, making sure when the
accelerator pedal is pressed the throttle opens fully.
Fit the metal retainer over the rubber part of the cable.

Fit the air intake from a zetec fiesta over the cam cover and bolt it to the heat shield,
2 10mm bolts do this. Connect up the rubber pipe to the end of it via a jubilee clip.
Now the fun part, the Mondeo MAF (Mass AirFlow) Sensor is a lot larger than the
standard Fiesta one so you will have to use insulation tape to seal the join,
push the rubber pipe into the MAF then wrap round it.

Fit the air filter onto the end of the MAF. I used a cone filter as the
standard zetec air box wont fit the fiesta engine bay for some strange reason.

The breather from the cam cover will either need
connecting to the main air filter or a little filter clamping onto the pipe.

Fabricate a rear mount to stop the filter and MAF coming off.
I used a bit of metal, bent it to fit through the tab on
the MAF housing and bolted it to the thermostat housing.

The front mount was made of the same metal bent to an s shape.
This has a rubber dampener from the Mondeo inlet manifold
bolted to the slam panel, then the other end to the MAF housing

Fit the oil filter next, this could be a problem on the CVH.
In the end I had to use a Renault 5 turbo filter as the standard Zetec
one is way too large, as is the CVH, but a KA one would also fit,
this is because the chassis leg catches the filter making it impossible to get it on and off,

NOTE: Make sure you fill the filter with fresh oil before fitting, and only tighten it hand tight.

Fill up the oil system with a Quality 5W/50 - 10W/30 oil.
This engine will require 4.25L.
Pour it in from the filler cap on the rocker cover.

Check the level of the gearbox oil. This is done by removing the plug from
the front face of the box and inserting a bent bit of metal into it.
There should be about an inch on the "Dip stick" if its low top it up and replace the bung

Fit the exhaust

As the CVH used a different exhaust system to the Zetec, you will need a Zetec mid section and back box.

And this little rusty bit of metal, you will have to get it 2nd hand as ford don't make it any more.

You will also need two new bolts M10x35 and 8 Washers to match.

Use a drill or dermal to make the holes big enough to take the M10's.

Jack the back of the car up and support it on axle stands.
Use a 13MM socket and remove the two rear bolts that hold the beam carrier to the chassis.

Put the new bolt through the bracket followed by 4 washers and tighten it back up to the carrier.

Hook the mid section over the rear beam securing it to the new mount.
Push it onto the cat, use a jack to rotate the pipe up into the channel,
making sure your not too high otherwise it will rattle on the gear selector.
Use a new clamp and nip it up tight so the cat and mid section are one.
Finally push the back box onto the mid section, clamp it and hang it.

That's the exhaust done.

Last thing to do is to connect the battery back up and start the car keeping an eye on the oil and water levels.

There you have it, a complete guide to convert the CVH 8V XR2I into a Zetec 16V 2.0L

One final note is that the zetec can also have a front mount to stop the engine rocking back;
this is not essential but will increase the stability.

I fitted mine and still used the CVH alternator bracket, but the mount needs a bit of surgery.

Below is a picture of the mount before. It's in two parts, one that fits to the block and one to the inner wing.

Attack the mount with an angle grinder taking off the bottom bit
but leaving enough so the CVH alternator bracket can fit.
Grind down the mounting surface so the CVH mount is as close to the block as you can.

Now you will have to remove the water pipe from the front of the water pump,
slide the mount over it and bolt it to the block. You will loose some of
the coolant so make sure you top up the system. Refit the alternator and tighten it up.
You may need to get a longer belt, but you may be lucky enough to get away with the original belt.

Take the part to be mounted to the inner wing/chassis leg and remove the flap part from the top, this is useless.

Place the mount on the part on the block, loosely tightening the bolts down

Mark on the chassis leg where you need to drill.
Remove the arch lining and mark where to drill again here.
Use a 12MM drill bit to drill all holes, seal all bare metal to stop it rusting.

Drop the bolts through the holes tighten them up with nylock
nuts clamping the mount to the chassis leg.
Tighten up the 3 top bolts thus securing the mount to the engine.
Refit the arch liner and wheel and lower to the ground.

I hope this guide is of some use and hope it solves any problem you may have when converting the engine.

Make sure you now tell the DVLA and Insurance what you have done.

A big thank you to: Craig and Henry for all their help and knowledge to help me convert my tired old CVH to zetec

Any Questions please ask them in the forum and i'll try and help as best i can.

Guide Written and © On 22 Febuary 2009 by Andrew Whiteman (AW3K)