This guide will show you in detail how to install the escort rs2000 front callipers and discs.
Why upgrade, well why not, if you have the larger engine conversion, you will need a larger brake conversion.
Lets face it the fiesta braking system is not the best, the discs are small and the callipers are smaller still.
Rather than going out and buying a performance brake kit you can get away with
using the braking system from nearly all the ford range, with one modification or another.
As stated above I have gone for the Escort 1993 RS2000 260mm front disc conversion.
I decided on this size as my alloys just fit over them.
PLEASE NOTE YOU NEED A MINIMUM OF A 14" ALLOY TO GO OVER THE CALLIPERS
Tools Needed:
Socket set
Spanners
Jack
Axle stands
Drill
Drill bits
Allen key sockets
Copper slip grease
Rags
Brake bleeder
Parts Needed:
Escort RS2000 Callipers
260mm discs
Pads to suit
Spring clips to hold calliper and carrier together
Dot 4 brake fluid
4x M12 bolts same length as originals
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Stop Me Now
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OHHHH please Stop me now!
Applies to:
All MK3's
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Please read this guide fully before you start and also take note about the 14" minimum wheel size.
Also remember to change your spare as it will be a 13" steelie and wont fit over the callipers.
Now that's over with we can now get on with fitting the brakes.
First up you need to get hold of some escort RS2000 calipers from a 2wd on a 1992/3 plate,
these take 260mm discs that look massive but infact are not much bigger than the standard discs.
The calliper piston is a lot larger, thus giving more stopping power.
I got my callipers 2nd hand from a frient but they can be got anywhere really,
clean them and give them a lick of paint. Next you will need new pads and discs.
Ebay again for these. Depending on the condition you might need new spring clips.
These are ford only parts and cost about £7 each!!!!
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Chock the back wheels, slacken the front wheels and raise the entire front end support
it on axle stands and start to remove the old callipers.
Start by loosening the pipe union on the calliper (just makes it easier while its still attached).
Don't twist the pipe as it may become deformed.
Using an Alan key socket, remove the sliders from the rear of the calliper
then prise the calliper from the disc, if your car has been stood for a
long time then you will be grated by the pads still being attached to the disc.
Hit these with a hammer and remove them .
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With the calliper out of the way you will need to remove the carrier from the hub. Simply 2 15mm bolts.
When they are removed the carrier and the disc can be taken off.
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Whilst the disc is off you can have access to the hub. From this point the mods cannot repaired so please know what you are doing.
The carrier mounting holes on the hub now need to be drilled out to accept the M12 bolts that the carrier requires.
Use a 12mm drill bit and a round file to complete this.
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Once done test fit the carrier to the hub, then remove,
if all is ok proceed to the mounting stage, otherwise keep filing out the holes
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Apply a small smear of copper slip or copper grease to the hub mounting surface(not the disc).
Put the disc on and put 2 diagonally opposite wheel nuts on and tighten up, this is to stop the disc moving.
Notice the size difference between the discs
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Mount the carrier to the hub using the new bolts and tighten them up,
at this point the disc cannot be removed unless the carrier is.
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Get the brake pads and you will notice that the inner one with the claw like back has a wire coming out of the back of it,
this is useless on the fiesta so will need to be cut off. In case your wondering what it is, it's a wear indicator.
Apply a smear of copper slip to the pad mounting points on the carrier and install the outer pad.
The inner pad needs to be clipped into the piston on the calliper it self, again apply copper slip here.
Screw the brake pipe into the calliper at this point as far as you can with your fingers
then slide the calliper onto the carrier and tighten up the Alen screws/sliders.
Then simply nip up the pipe union to make it tight.
Refit the spring clip that holds the calliper to the front of the carrier.
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Repeat this for the other side then proceed to bleed the brake system.
The braking system now needs to be bled of all the air bubbles that will have been ingresses from removing the pipes.
The best way to do this and probably the cheapest is to use a bleed kit,
these can be bought for about £7 but if your like me I begrudged paying that price
so I made a kit out of a 1 pint plastic milk bottle and a length of rubber tube.
Drill a hole in the milk bottle lid and push the pipe in, job done.
Fill the milk bottle with about an inch of brake fluid.
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Fill the brake reservoir to above the max line with dot 4 brake fluid then depress the pedal a few times then check the level.
Make sure its safe and start the car and keep it running to allow the pressure to build up in the master cylinder.
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Start off with the driver's side front wheel. Clean off the bleed nipple,
remove the dirt cap attach the tube from the bleed kit and using an appropriate
size spanner loosen the nipple half a turn then get an assistant to slowly depress
the brake pedal until the fluid runs free of air bubbles into the bottle.
Quickly tighten the nipple. Check the fluid level in the tank and top it up as needed,
Move onto the passenger side rear wheel now and repeat the same procedure here as above.
Check the fluid level in the tank and top it up as needed,
You may have noticed you have worked in a diagonal pattern ,
this is because this is the first circuit on the master cylinder. And the next part the other circuit.
Using the same method as above start on the passenger side front then the drivers side rear.
Check the fluid level in the tank and top it up as needed after each brake,
Again the diagonal pattern.
The brake pedal should now feel stiff with the bite being near the top.
And with the engine turned off the pedal should get rock hard as you press it.
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Replace the wheels and lower the car to the ground. Take it steady for a bit and keep checking the fluid level,
if it lowers you may have a leek and you will need to check all the unions again.
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Here you will see the picture on the left is a 15" RS7 Spoke alloy, plenty of room.
The middle is a 14" RS7 spoke alloy, no room at all not even for stick-on weights
ao all balancing weights need to be on the front edges.
The right picture is a 14" Escort alloy which has a different spoke design so has more room.
Happy and safe motoring
Hope this guide is of some use to some one
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Guide Written and © On 03 Apr 2010 by Andrew Whiteman (AW3K)
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