Guide Written and © On 11 June 2006 by Wayne Loomes (Tweek) For, A big thanks Mate :)

This guide enables you to refit your doors with more stylish trim and give it that "up-to-date" look using Mk4/5 Fiesta doorcards.
If you plan on doing this with manual window winders I would suggest measuring up the depth of the card around
that area to make sure that the winders have sufficient length to continue use of the windows!
Having based this guide on a Fiesta with the later electric windows I cannot currently advise
the best options for manual windows or models where the electric window switches are placed in the centre console.

Tools Needed:

Phillips screwdriver
slotted screwdriver
strong adhesive
double-sided tape or mirror pads
rivet gun
Stanley knife

Parts Needed:

window switches/winders to suit
release-handle surrounds (with Tweeters)
self tapping screws
mounting brackets
plastic popper clips
mk4 door handle and cable

Mk4 Door Cards


Looks Nice

Applies to:
All MK3's With Horrid Door Cards

We'll start by removing the old dull door trims.

Low spec (1.1-1.3)

- Use a slotted screwdriver to pop the spring clip off from behind the window winders to remove them from the mechanism

- Remove the 3 screws from the door pocket/speaker cover trim and gently pull it out from the top

- Undo the 2 screws either end underneath the door handle to remove it.

- Unscrew and remove the trim surrounding the release-handle

handle handle

High spec (1.1 & 1.4 Ghia, 1.6S, XR2i, RS Turbo)

- Use a slotted screwdriver to gently prise the electric window switches from the lower trim and carefully release the multiplug from the bottom.

- Remove the 3 screws from the door pocket/speaker cover trim and gently pull it out from the top

- Using the slotted screwdriver, carefully prise the cover off the door handle to gain access to 2 of the screws holding it on, the third is on a strange angle at the opposite end.

- Unscrew and remove the trim surrounding the release-handle

door bung

Both: Now everything is out the way, push your fingers under the bottom of the doorcard and
start easing the popper clips away from the door, working from the bottom and up the sides,
once done, push or lift the card off the top of the clips and put it out the way to one side.
You will notice a black strip lining the bottom of the window that is also on the mk4 doorcards;
leave the old one in as it makes fitting easier.
I would also recommend removing the inside plate off the door mirrors at this stage,
for Mk3 mirrors gently pull off the adjusting arm and mk3.5 unscrew the collar from the adjusting stalk.
Both versions of the plate are then held on by one screw.


The final preparation for fitment is to change the release-handle over to the mk4 hand le and cable,
its simple enough but can be awkward. Unscrew the 3 chunky screws surrounding the latch on the door,
I'd suggest spraying these with a little WD-40 first just so you don't round them off if they're tight.
Once the latch is off, you will need to disconnect the 2 bars that come out from it, one from the exterior handle
and one from the lock, they should just push out their clips towards you but take a visual image and remember
which angle they fit. Then move onto the central locking motor (if fitted), simply held on by 2 screws.
Once done leave the c/l motor in the door somewhere and follow the cable up to the handle.
To unclip this, pull on the front (side towards front of car),
it should then pivot over on 2 clips which can then be slid out by moving it towards the front of the car.
You should now have your latch, cable and handle all safely removed.

seat seat

On the face of the latch you will see a white plastic cover, remove this by unclipping it from the slots on the side,
this now gives you access to the cable end, your mk4 cable end should look the same so with either pliers or a screwdriver,
prise the cable out from the latch, and replace it with the new one it is actually harder than it looks so make sure the handle still pulls correctly when refitting!
Replace the white plastic cover and align the latch with the c/l motor to screw it back on, it only fit's one way.
Now, remember those 2 bars you flicked out a second ago? Well their clips will need to be "opened" with a slotted screw driver by putting it in the hole and twisting.
Align the latch up with it's correct place and refit the 2 bars, once they are in place, push the sides of the clips together and they'll hold them safely.
Finally, screw the latch back into the door and refit the handle opposite to removal.
This would be a good time to check the latch cable has been replaced properly so open and lock/unlock the doors from both inside and out.
If it doesn't then you have done something wrong in the process.

clip clip clip

Moving onů

Let's take a look at your new Mk4/5 doorcards, they look a bit different to the Mk3s and fit slightly differently too!
Before we attack that, take your trusty Stanley knife and on the back of the new doorcard,
carefully score out the glue that's holding the window lining on.
I say to use the old window lining in as the cards sit nicer and won't stick out an
inch and a half over the window for people to see! Once the glue sealing on the new doorcard is broken,
carefully twist it off to remove the window edging and hopefully a smooth curve to the top of the card.

Now then, screw your mounting bracket into the doorcard, there will be one screw just above the pocket
and another downwards in the handle, make sure it doesn't wobble.
If you didn't get screws with it you will need 2 pozi-flange s/taps.
Next is to put either some double-sided tape onto the faces of the bracket or mirror-fixing pads
are a good alternative to stick on.

Right then, with no obstructions left, carefully hold the doorcard on at the top
of the door and gently align and pop the 2 clips into the door but don't let go of the top!
If you've done it right you should have a nice flush fitting around the bottom corner where your
clips have just taken to and an aching arm from where you're holding the top.
Whilst holding the top of the card, press firmly on the handle area where you screwed the card to the bracket earlier,
the aim here is to get the bracket to stick to the door.
When you're confident it has, slowly remove those 2 screws and unclip the poppers to remove the card from the door,
if fortunate your bracket will still be on the door, not on the floor.

With the bracket on the door, you will need to drill out the holes for it to be riveted together;
the bracket holes are sometimes different sizes so check to see what size drill bits and rivets you require.
The top hole on the bottom section cannot be riveted so you do not need to do anything with this one,
the other three will still make it strong enough.

Hopefully I don't need to tell you how to rivet so I'll take a guess that your bracket is now mounted and we can move on.


Re-clip the two poppers from before and test fit the doorcard once again.
You may find you need to push the card in a little to get the holes to line up with the bracket
but as long as it screws in it'll be fine.

The next stage is to shave a little off the top-front of the card to refit the mirror plate.
It shouldn't become anymore than 1/2inch deep by 5-6 inches long,
measure your mirror panel up with the doorcard to judge how much you think needs removing,
detach the doorcard from the bracket and poppers and take your hacksaw to it,
remember commonsense is to cut not enough rather than too much!


Once you're happy with what you've done refit the mirror trim opposite to removal and start fitting the clips
with popper clips, with the exception being the one mentioned earlier, at the bottom in the middle.
If you've got electric windows you will need to pull the rubber grommet away from the door,
up and out the middle for it to reach the new switch position.
What I noticed with the mk4 window switches is that they appear to work opposite to the mk3,
you will see what I mean when you plug them in that they work backwards!
To fix this, gently pop off the rockers on the drivers side switch,
turn the switch over and then clip the rockers back on so that they are now opposite to before,
swap the multiplugs over, and try them again now, they should now be functioning correctly.
As for the passenger switch, you can either leave it so it works upside down,
turn the switch around or a better option is to get the same switch from a Ford Ka,
I noticed its pins are opposite thus operating correctly with the Mk3 multiplug.

If you haven't done so already, unplug the switches and clip them into their home on the doorcard and then reconnecting the multiplugs,
obviously you will need to do this with the doorcard rested up against its door.


Your doorcard should now be poppered and switched, all you need to do now is clip it back onto the door
and screw it back onto the bracket. Then finally your release-handle surround.
You may have noticed it has a small speaker (Tweeter) built in, unfortunately the Mk3
audio loom is not capable of connecting to this so unless you plan on refitting the
tweeter with your own it's only going to be for show.
Pull your release-handle towards you and slide the surround trim on and fix it with a small countersunk s/tapper.

The fitting process is complete, now for a little tidying up.
At the top of the doorcard you will notice it sits a little high, away from the door.
What I did here was take some industrial strength glue to fasten this down to the old window rubber that we left in,
don't worry though, you will still be able to remove the doorcard when required,
just your window lining will need to come out too but it just slots in anyway.

This completes the guide! Unless however you happen to own a 5-door, read on!


Rear Doors

These basically fit exactly the same as the front but they have a smaller bracket with only one screw,
it does however have 4 rivets to be fastened but due to the angle of the door only 3 of them can be fitted.

The window winders do consult a slight problem in that they will not reach the mechanism, therefore they won't work.
What I did was leave a socket in one of the pouches on the back of the front seats that fitted the mechanism,
then fixed some Velcro between the window winder and the doorcard, making sure that it isn't visible and fixed
the two together. Now if anybody happens to be in the back and needs the window open, simply pull off the
Velcro'd winder and turn the mechanism with the socket in the seat.

Alternatively if you don't plan on ever using the rear windows you can fix two blanking plugs in their place.
These plugs can be found on any Fiesta that has electric windows but their doorcards were made with a hole for a winder,
thus giving you a blanking plug to use here.

card card

There you have it,
Hope this helps some what..

Guide Written and © On 11 June 2006 by Wayne Loomes (Tweek) For

© Andrew Whiteman. On the Net since 2005