This guide will show you in detail how to install the fitting Mk1 Mondeo Master Cylinder and Servo to a mk3 fiesta.
Why upgrade, well if you have upgraded the front and rear brakes you
need too to allow there to be enough pressure in the system.
Why not the escort one or another higher spec fiesta, simple the escort one requires
you to modify the actuator rod and if your not good with a welder then don't bother
as your messing with the things that could save your life.
The other fiesta ones are no good as they have a smaller diameter.
I have chosen to go for a Mk1 Mondeo from a car with a cable clutch and non ABS this
is just because the fluid bottle has other holes in it for the hydraulic clutch and ABS which I didn't want.
Tools Needed:
Socket set
Spanners
Jack
Axle stands
Drill
Drill bits
Pipe flaring tool
Rags
Brake bleeder
Parts Needed:
Mondeo mk1 master cylinder
Mondeo mk1 servo
Copper pipe
Copper pipe fittings m10x1 and m13x1 male and female.
Dot 4 Brake fluid
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Huge
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Stop me now!
Applies to:
All MK3's and prob mk4's as well
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Start off by going and getting the Mondeo servo and master cylinder any from the
Zetec range will work fine. Don't worry if you think,
"That wont fit in my engine bay". Have faith it will, Just!
Remove it from the Mondeo by undoing the 4 13mm nuts from behind and prise out
the R clip from the actuator rod behind then just cut the brake pipes off and take the complete unit.
Little tip is try and find one from a car with a cable not hydraulic gearbox and a NON ABS model,
this saves time having to bung the holes in the tank.
Here is what your looking for, and just for size comparison here they are together.
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Now the removal of the old one. Undo the brake pipe unions on the master cylinder and catch the fluid in something.
Then undo the 4 13mm nuts on the back of the servo and pull it forward so you can see the actuator pin and R Clip,
pull out the clip with pliers then push the pin out to the side.
This will then release the servo. Unclip the vacuum pipe on the right and put safe.
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Looking at the servo mounting points you will notice that they are not entirely the same.
You will have to drill the mount in the engine bay to allow the new one to fit correctly.
All I did was elongate the holes diagonally outwards a few mm, which was sufficient enough for it to be a snug fit.
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The server must be mounted with the breather hole to the top and for this bit
you will need an assistant or a length of bar to push the brake pedal down and hold it.
This will allow you to reconnect the actuator arm with the pin and R clip,
release the brake pedal and the servo should fall back to the bracket so you can re tighten it.
Bend the vacuum pipe fitting around an reconnect into the servo.
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Now the tricky part, well more fiddly. The pipe work.
The Mondeo master cylinder uses 2 sizes of fittings, M10 and M13 depending on which circuit it is.
The Mk3 fiesta has the correct fittings already and with a bit of pipe bending they can be altered to fit in and tightened up.
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The Mk3 XR2i has a brake bias valve fitted to the inner wing meaning that the pipe unions are the wrong way around,
I decided to take the pipes off from the master cylinder to the bias and copy them
in copper tube using the correct fittings on the end, simple job if you have a flaring tool.
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The Mk3.5 Fiesta has all M10 fittings on the master cylinder so two of the pipes need changing to the M13 fitting.
If you trace down the back of the engine bay there is a pipe union so not all the pipe from front to back needs to be changed.
Simply remove, copy fit correct fittings and flare the pipe.
The mk3.5 also has the bias valve attached to the master cylinder,
which has the wrong thread to be fitted to the Mondeo cylinder so the bias
needs to be moved to the back of the car unless a thread converter can be sourced.
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You will notice which you have from looking at the master cylinder,
Left Mk3 right Mk3.5
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Before you fit the pipes, put some fluid in the cylinder and pres the pedal gently and allow
some fluid to flow from the ports to make sure its clean.
Attach the pipes making sure they are tight, fill up the reservoir and proceed to bleed the system.
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The braking system now needs to be bled of all the air bubbles that will have been ingresses from removing the pipes.
The best way to do this and probably the cheapest is to use a bleed kit,
these can be bought for about £7 but if your like me I begrudged paying that price
so I made a kit out of a 1 pint plastic milk bottle and a length of rubber tube.
Drill a hole in the milk bottle lid and push the pipe in, job done.
Fill the milk bottle with about an inch of brake fluid.
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Fill the brake reservoir to above the max line with dot 4 brake fluid then depress the pedal a few times then check the level.
Make sure its safe and start the car and keep it running to allow the pressure to build up in the master cylinder.
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Start off with the driver's side front wheel. Clean off the bleed nipple,
remove the dirt cap attach the tube from the bleed kit and using an appropriate
size spanner loosen the nipple half a turn then get an assistant to slowly depress
the brake pedal until the fluid runs free of air bubbles into the bottle.
Quickly tighten the nipple. Check the fluid level in the tank and top it up as needed,
Move onto the passenger side rear wheel now and repeat the same procedure here as above.
Check the fluid level in the tank and top it up as needed,
You may have noticed you have worked in a diagonal pattern ,
this is because this is the first circuit on the master cylinder. And the next part the other circuit.
Using the same method as above start on the passenger side front then the drivers side rear.
Check the fluid level in the tank and top it up as needed after each brake,
Again the diagonal pattern.
The brake pedal should now feel stiff with the bite being near the top.
And with the engine turned off the pedal should get rock hard as you press it.
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Replace the wheels and lower the car to the ground. Take it steady for a bit and keep checking the fluid level,
if it lowers you may have a leek and you will need to check all the unions again.
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You may notice that the Mondeo reservoir has a solid cap and a multi plug attached
to the bottle rather than having the connector in the lid like on the fiesta.
From some research it looks like the connector is the same as the mk3 fiesta one
and once plugged in should have the same effect as the mk3 fiesta one.
Also note that the fiesta jack will now touch the servo, not a big problem, if you want you can put some rubber or foam between.
Hope this guide is of some use to some one or any one who wants bigger brakes
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Guide Written and © On 03 Apr 2010 by Andrew Whiteman (AW3K)
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