When you buy a lower spec Fiesta you may notice that there is no Rev counter fitted.
In this little guide we show you how to install a rev counter and suppressor using genuine ford parts.
The suppressor module allows the rev counter to function correctly
without interference from another electrical component.
This could be as trivial as using the Cig Lighter to the more noticable, turning the headlights on.
In some cases a suppressor is not used and the rev counter will work fine
but in other cases the rev counter will not function at all.
Tools Needed:
Socket Set
Torx bit set
Screw Drivers
Knife
Wire cutters/strippers
Soldering Equipment
Scredriver
Torx Bits
Socket Set
Insulation Tape
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Rev It up!
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Suppressed Revs
Applies to Mk3 and Mk3.5
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Sit in the drivers seat in the car and look at the clocks already there,
Notice the black surround encasing the speedo head. Remove it by
un screwing the two screws below the surround.
Gently pull the surround twards you. and place to one side.
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With the surround removed, it is now time to take out the cluster securing screws.
One in each corner.
BEFORE you go any further you need to disconnect the speedo cable from the gearbox housing.
Simple job, just take and adjustable spanner and unscrew it, freeing the cable from the plastic housing.
Depending on which model you have, there may be a plastic section with a wire coming from it
between the gearbox and cable, this is the speed sensor.
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Gently pull the cluster forward and reach your hand behind and feel for the speedo cable,
Grab it and push the notch to release it from the back of the speedo head.
Next pull the large multiplug out of the dials, there are no barbs or clips holding this in.
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You will now need the pin for the rev signal from another multiplug, it can be any colour.
This must have enough wire to be attached to the main loom and up through the rubber gromet to the middle of the bulkhead.
It should be green if you want it to look original.
You are looking for Pin 10(5th from right on photo), they are numbered on the plug.
open the catch on the plug and push the new wire and contact pin into the plug.
Close the plug up and tape the wire to the loom.
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Disconnect the battery otherwise you will get a shock like I did.
Feed and tape the wire to the loom and out into the engine bay via the rubber grommet
behind the water exspansion tank, remove the tank to make it eaiser to get to.
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Locate the jack in the right hand corner of the engine bay, Remove it.
Behind it you will notice there is an earth point with another hole below it. you will need these.
Now if you look at the suppressor module you will notice it has a metal hook on one side and a loop on the other.
Remove the earth point bolt from the inner wing, dont loose it.
Clip the metal hook into the hole below the earth point in the inner wing
and align the loop with the earth point hole and cable. Put the bolt back in and secure tightly.
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With the suppressor inplace the wiring can continue.
Notice there is a green with a red stripe and solid green wires coming from the suppressor.
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Feed the green wire from the dial multiplug that you pushed through the grommet
along the bulkhead making sure it is attached correctly
until you get to the Suppressor Modual.
Solder and insulate this wire to the green wire from the suppressor.
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The green with red stripe wire from the suppressor must be connected to the EDIS module.
(The red block with all the wires going to it.)
To make it a little eaiser, pull out the vacume pipe that comes from the air filter
The green/red wire from the suppressor needs to be spliced to the 2nd wire from the left on the e-dis module.
Don’t cut the wire from pin 2 just remove the outer sleeving and solder the wire as mentioned above to it and insulate it.
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Thats all the wiring done,
now by law you cannot change the milage on a car(Clocking) So you MUST do the following.
Remove the bulbs from the top of the original clocks from your car.
Press down the tabs on the top and bottom of the casing, Remove and set aside.
Turn the clocks over and remove the two torx headed screws holding the speedo inplace.
Pull the speedo head out and set aside and put the rest of the clocks in your box of un-used bits.
Repeat the above for the new clocks with the rev counter, but put your original speedo head inside the new cluster.
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Reasemble the cluster, connect the multiplug and the speedo cable to the cluster and push into the dash,
Screw into place and refit the surround.
Connect the speedo cable to the gearbox. and your done.
Start the engine and the rev counter should bounce to life.
Go for a drive, Job done.
If for any reason the rev counter will not work, simply unplug the suppressor
and bridge the pins on the plug with wire. If the counter then works, the suppressor will need replacing.
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PLEASE NOTE
After completing all of the above you may find that the rev counter only reads half of its true value.
I.E. only showing 500RPM when it should be 1000RPM
This is a common problem due to the fiesta having so many different variants.
It took me well over a year to find a rev counter that worked correctly in a HCS engine
if you look in the right hand bottom corner of the rev counter face you should see a letter or number.
There are many different letters and they all mean different engines.
Here is my list so far:
"1E" works with a 1.4 8V CVH (Ghia, LX, SI)
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"2E" works with a 1.6, 1.8 16V Zetec (XR2I, SI, Ghia, RS)
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"EFI" works with a 1.6, 16V (XR2I, SI, Ghia, RS)
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"C" works with a 1.6 8V CVH (XR2I, S, RS Turbo)
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"V" Works with a 1.0, 1.1, 1.3 HCS Injection and non injection (L, LX, CLX, Bonus, Freedom, Saphire etc)
I have been informed that the V on the clocks stands for Valencies which was a code name for the HCS engine
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"No markings" It all depends on this one, As i have been informed that it is different for all cars,
mainly used for the RS Turbo, but can be found in all of the above cars.
I cannot be sure if it works for all the cars though.
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Hope this guide is of some help.
Guide Written and © On 30 June 2005 by Andrew Whiteman (AW3K)
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